BIODYNAMICS IN AUSTRALIAN VINEYARDS

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BIODYNAMICS IN AUSTRALIAN VINEYARDS

This list of Australian winemakers using biodynamic practices is constantly updated; if you are a grape grower or winemaker using BD and you are not here, please contact me at max@maxallen.com.au

Last updated May 26, 2008

New South Wales

South Australia

Victoria

West Australia

NEW SOUTH WALES

Botobolar Vineyard, Mudgee www.botobolar.com Certified organic (ACO), biodynamic practice. Botobolar’s founder, Gil Wahlquist, was one of the first Australians to adopt organic viticulture in the 1970s, and one of the first to adopt BD in 1990. Current owners Kevin and Trina Karstrom are making increasingly good wine, especially the minerally, floral Rain Goddess white (made from the underdog grape, crouchen), and a vibrant, juicy preservative-free red blend.
Botobolar: Kevin and Trina Karstrom

Cassegrain Wines, Hastings River www.cassegrainwines.com.au Cassegrain produced a single-vineyard, Demeter-certified BD chambourcin until 2004. Unfortunately, that vineyard is no longer in production, but John Cassegrain has told me he will start using BD preps on new vineyards at Tenterfield in NSW’s New England region in the next couple of years.

Cumulus Wines, Orange www.cumuluswines.com.au Biodynamic trials. Since spring 2006, 12 hectares of this huge, 500 ha vineyard have been farmed biodynamically – timing 500 and 501 application to Moon opposition Saturn, 502-507 added to seaweed spray, etc. ‘I love it,’ says viticulturist Jen Doyle. ‘It makes so much more sense than conventional.’ She adds that, despite problems with mildew, early indications of flavour from the 2008 harvest suggest that BD has made a positive difference.
Jen Doyle, viticulturist at Cumulus

Krinklewood Vineyard, Hunter Valley www.krinklewood.com Certified biodynamic (ACO). Since Rod Windrim enthusiastically embraced BD a few years ago on his beautiful property in the Broke sub-region of the Hunter, the quality of the wines has improved: my pick is the complex, multi-layered Spider’s Run white, an unusual blend of natural-yeast, barrel-fermented verdelho, chardonnay and semillon.
Rod Windrim of Krinklewood Vineyard

Lark Hill, Canberra District www.larkhillwine.com.au Certified biodynamic (NASAA). The Carpenter family already had one of the Canberra district’s best vineyards before converting to BD in 2005. Early indications are that the wines are now even better: the 2006 pinot noir is absolutely crammed with succulent, juicy flavour.
Ducks and snow-covered vines at Lark Hill, Canberra

Lowe Family Wine Co., Mudgee www.lowewine.com.au As well as being certified organic (ACO) and using Soil Food Web techniques to improve soil biology, Jane Wilson and David Lowe have been applying the biodynamic field sprays and BD compost for three years now, moving away from chemical inputs entirely in their dry-grown vineyard (not even using copper or sulphur) from the 2007 vintage onwards.
Lowe: Jane Wilson and David Lowe

Macquariedale Estate, Hunter Valley www.macquariedale.com.au Certified biodynamic (ACO). Inspired by influential Hunter Valley biodynamic farmer, John Priestley, the McDonald family converted their vineyard to BD from 2001, becoming fully certified in 2005. The 2006 chardonnays and 2007 merlot are excellent examples of the intensely flavoured regional style.
Ross and Derise McDonald from Macquariedale Estate

Organic One, Jerilderie www.organic1.com.au Certified biodynamic (ACO). This is BD on a grand scale: 110 hectares of vines managed in a dry, hot climate with scarce water. Although much of the fruit grown here ends up under other people’s labels - Tesco organic chardonnay in the UK, for example, and one-litre Tera Paks of Green Path organic chardonnay in the US - a couple of wines are also sold under the Bonic family’s own Organic One label: a very soft, candied-fruity chardonnay and an oaky, medium-bodied shiraz.
Frank Bonic of Organic One

Retief Wines, Gundagai Certified biodynamic (ACO). Inspired by the first Biodynamic Wine Forum at Beechworth in 2004, Lyn and Francois Retief converted their 10 year-old vineyard to BD, gaining certification in 2006. The minimal preserative, 2006 Shiraz has good spicy blackberry flavours. Email:retiefs@sctelco.net.au

Rosnay Organic Wines, Canowindra www.organicfarms.com.au Certified biodynamic (ACO). The BD-managed vineyard is just one part of the Statham family’s business - they also have figs and olives - which is itself part of a group of organic farms called Rivers Road, located in the Cowra district of NSW. As well as making (increasingly good) wine under their own label, Rosnay also sell BD fruit to other winemakers.
Sam and Simone Statham with daughter Molly, Rosnay

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SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Burge Family Winemakers, Barossa Valley www.burgefamily.com.au Some biodynamic practices, not certified. Ever since the eternally inquisitive Rick Burge threw away the vineyard chemicals a few years ago, he has been slowly adopting BD methods such as composting and spraying 500 in his vineyards. Rick’s wines were already very good indeed; the BD could be the icing on the cake.
Rick Burge of Burge Family Winemakers. photo: James Boddington

Cape Jaffa Wines, Mount Benson www.capejaffawines.com.au Certified biodynamic (ACO). Derek Hooper, who makes some of the Limestone Coast’s best, most savoury red wines here at Cape Jaffa, has been practicing organic methods for years; in 2008 the vineyard received full certification.
Derek Hooper of Cape Jaffa Wines. photo:Cape Jaffa Wines

Elderton, Barossa Valley www.eldertonwines.com.au Just starting biodynamic practices in some vineyards, not certified. Elderton’s Al and Cam Ashmead are keen to see whether BD can bring some vitality back into some of their older, struggling shiraz vines. Watch this space.

Foster’s www.fosters.com.au That’s right. Foster’s. Believe it or not, even Australia’s biggest wine company is interested in biodynamics – albeit on a tiny, and very experimental scale. Since June 2007, viticulturists Suzi Hilder and Greg Mader have been applying the BD preps to a small, one hectare company vineyard at Dorrien in the Barossa. ‘We’re certainly at the trial stage,’ says Hilder. ‘And it take years to prove anything, to get approval to do anything else in other vineyards. But we’ve already achieved the most difficult thing: dispelling the fear in a big company that biodynamics is just hocus pocus.’

Gemtree Vineyards, McLaren Vale www.gemtreevineyards.com.au Biodynamic practices in some vineyards, not certified. Gemtree started using BD preps on some of their vineyards in Spring 2006, as part of a broader extensive program of sustainable environmental management and the promotion of biodiversity. Gemtree’s wines are full-flavoured, boisterous examples of the McLaren Vale style.
Mike Brown, Melissa Brown and Andrew Buttery, Gemtree Vineyards

Hahndorf Hill Winery, Adelaide Hills www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au Biodynamic practice, not yet certified. Marc Dobson and Larry Jacobs (who, in a previous life, had a vineyard in Stellenbosch, South Africa) bought this established 4 hectare hillside vineyard in 2002, and quickly established a reputation for fine, delicate, crisp white wines. Chemical vineyard sprays stopped and application of the BD preps started in autumn 2007. Marc is doing a course through Lynette West’s Biodynamic Education Centre and Larry has been talking to Alex Podolinsky of the BDRI about gaining Demeter certification: ‘For me, certification is like a checklist, to make sure you’re doing things properly,’ says Larry.
Marc Dobson and Larry Jacobs, Hahndorf Hill

Henschke, Eden Valley www.henschke.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Prue Henschke has used organic viticultural methods in her precious Barossa and Adelaide Hills vineyards for years, trialling innovations such as sowing permanent swards of native grasses between the vine rows. Since 2005, BD practices such as the use of 500 and cow pat pit compost have been used in 40 hectares of vineyards - including Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone.
Prue and Stephen Henschke, Hill of Grace Vineyard. photo: James Boddington

Kalleske Wines, Barossa Valley www.kalleske.com Certified organic (ACO), some biodynamic methods used. Sixth generation Barossa grape-treader Troy Kalleske is one of the rising stars of Australia’s winemaking scene, producing some intensely-flavoured, powerful and expressive red wines from old, low-yielding vines.
Troy Kalleske of Kalleske Wines. photo: James Boddington

Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale www.kangarillaroad.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Kevin O’Brien started conversion to BD in spring 2007 by applying 500 and 501 to 7ha of older vineyard near the winery and on two new, close-planted blocks of shiraz and albarinho. ‘We want to make sure that what we leave behind to the next generation is sustainable,’ he says. ‘I don’t know of another approach to viticulture at the moment that can deliver this.’
Kevin O’Brien of Kangarilla Road

KT and the Falcon, Clare Valley www.ktandthefalcon.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Winemaker Kerri Thompson has left the Hardys-owned Leasingham winery to build - with her viticulturist husband Steve Farrugia - the KT and the Falcon label. The pair started using BD in both their own vineyard and a Leasingham vineyard a couple of years ago, and have seen distinct improvements in soil health and wine quality.
Kerri Thompson of KT and the Falcon. photo: James Boddington

Lucy Margaux Vineyard, Adelaide Hills Biodynamic practice, not certified. Anton van Klopper is an active and influential council member of Biodynamic Agriculture Australia and is successfully practicing what he preaches at his Lucy Margaux vineyard, four hectares of low-trained, pinot noir bush vines clinging to the slopes of a deep gully in the Adelaide Hills. Since they were planted four years ago, these vines have had nothing applied to them except the biodynamic preparations: no irrigation water, no sulphur, no copper, nothing. A similar hands-off approach was taken with the miniscule first crop of grapes produced in 2007 - no yeast, no sulphur, etc - but the wine (all 100 litres of it), tasted from its small barrel, was utterly gorgeous. Email: antonvanklopper@yahoo.com
Anton van Klopper, Lucy Margaux

Maverick Wines, Barossa Biodynamic practice on majority of 40ha of vineyard in the Barossa and Eden Valleys; working towards certification. Japan-based wine entrepreneur Ronald Brown owned biodynamic vineyards in the south of France in the 1990s, and when he established this new winery a couple of years ago, he started using BD methods in the two old Barossa vineyards he’d bought. A pair of very exciting, spicy, complex 2006 grenache blends called Greenock Rise and Twins suggest this is a winery worth watching. Email: ronald@brownandcoltd.com

Mitchell Winery, Clare Valley www.mitchellwines.com Biodynamic practice, not certified. Andrew Mitchell stopped using herbicide years ago because he could see the damage it was doing to his soil on his 75ha of vines, and since spring 2006 has been applying the BD preps and spreading his own compost. The Mitchell Watervale riesling - partially fermented using wild yeasts - is a fabulously complex, textural example of the classic Clare style.

Ngeringa, Adelaide Hills www.ngeringa.com Certified biodynamic (NASAA). Erinn Klein was brought up surrounded by Steiner ideas and biodynamics: his parents established the Jurlique range of cosmetics made from BD-grown herbs. Little wonder, then, that his vineyards are fully-BD (the straw-bale winery is even made from BD straw). This is a very exciting new label: the spicy, juicy 2005 Syrah in particular is excellent.
Janet and Erinn Klein of Ngeringa

Noon Winery, McLaren Vale
Some biodynamic practice, not certified. Drew Noon first came into contact with biodynamics when he worked at Cassegrain in NSW: now he uses some BD methods in his own vineyards. His wines are robust, extremely flavoursome and have a fully-deserved cult following

Email: noonwine@bigpond.net.au

Drew Noon of Noon Winery. photo: James Boddington

Paxton Wines, McLaren Vale www.paxtonvineyards.com Biodynamic practice, not certified. With over 80 hectares of vines farmed biodynamically, this is one of Australia’s largest BD vineyard operations. Most of the fruit from these vineyards is sold to other wineries, but an increasing amount sees its way into the Paxton range of very good wines.
Toby Bekkers, viticulturist Paxton Wines

Pertaringa Wines, McLaren Vale www.pertaringa.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Between them, Geoff Hardy and Ian Leask run 120 hectares of vineyards selling half the fruit to other wineries, making half under their own label. Inspired by a trip to Burgundy in 2005 with Toby Bekkers of Paxton (see above) viticulturist Richard Leask has been applying 500 and 501 since autumn 2006. The wines, made under contract by Ben Riggs, are good, fruity, up-front regional styles.
Richard Leask, viticulturist Pertaringa Wines

Radford Wines, Eden Valley www.radfordwines.com Biodynamic practice, not certified. Since buying this very special 2ha block of 70 and 30 year old old riesling vines in 2000 and planting some shiraz in 2002, Gill Radford has been moving away from conventional viticulture, mulching under vine in 2004, eschewing chemicals in 2006 and spraying the first lot of 500 in autumn 2007. The Radford Dale riesling is an exceptional example of the classic, taut Eden Valley style that gets better and better with each vintage.
Gill Radford of Radford Dale

Sinclair’s Gully, Adelaide Hills www.sinclairsgully.com Some biodynamic practice, not certified. Sue and Sean Delaney haven’t used herbicide or pesticide on their Hills vineyard since 2001, and started applying preparation 500 in spring 2007. The Delaneys have won various Landcare awards for their protection of 20 acres of endangered Candlebark Open Forest on their property.
Sinclairs Gully: Sean and Sue Delaney

Smallfry, Eden Valley www.smallfrywines.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Wayne Ahrens started spraying 500 on some parts of his Eden Valley vineyard in spring 2006, and while he’s not yet sure he’ll be able to manage it fully biodynamically, he has high hopes for a great old 18ha ‘garden’ (shiraz, grenache, carignan and cinsault vines plus fruit trees, all jumbled up together) he’s recently purchased at Vine Vale on the Barossa floor. Run ‘virtually organically’ for over 50 yearsby the previous owner, this lovely old vineyard received its first application of 500 in spring 2007, and Ahrens believes he should be able to certify the property before long.
Wayne Ahrens of Smallfry

Southpaw Vineyard, McLaren Vale www.southpawvineyard.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Henry and Lucy Rymill have been farming their 6 ha shiraz vineyard near Willunga biodynamically since August 2006. The current vintage of the splendidly-packaged Southpaw shiraz – the pre-BD 2005 – is deeply earthy and savoury. It’ll be fascinating to see whether / how biodynamics enhances this already strong sense of the soil.

Walter Clappis Wine Co., McLaren Vale
Biodynamic practice, not certified but considering certification. Walter Clappis has been farming his 32 hectare vineyard organically since 1997, biodynamically since 2002. The first wine to be released from the vineyard - a 2005 shiraz called The Hedonist - is a good, spicy, earthy expression of McLaren Vale.

Email: clappis@bigpond.net.au

James Cooter, Kimberly Clappis and Walter Clappis, Walter Clappis Wine Co.

Wirra Wirra, Mclaren Vale www.wirrawirra.com Biodynamic practice on some vineyards, not certified. Wirra Wirra stopped using herbicides on the 24 ha of vineyards surrounding the winery in 2005, and in autumn 2007, started using 500 and 501. Vineyard manager Richard Wellsmore is fired up about BD: he makes his own cow pat pit and seaweed teas, and as much as possible times activities in accordance with Brian Keats’ astro calendar.

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VICTORIA

All Saints, Rutherglen www.allsaintswine.com.au Started trialling biodynamic practices on 3.5 ha of shiraz and durif in autumn 2006, expanding to a further 13 ha the following year. Eliza Brown: ‘We now have about a third of our vineyard under the BD regime. Nick my brother has found some incredible results such as unusually uniform ripening. The fruit we picked from that block in 2008 was absolutely gorgeous, so we are pretty convinced that we are heading in the right direction.’

Avonmore Estate Biodynamic Wines, Bendigo www.avonmoreestatewine.com Certified biodynamic (Demeter). The rude good health of the soil, vines and animals on the Bryans family’s 120 hectare farm speaks volumes about the benefits of biodynamics. Early wine releases were unimpressive; the wines have improved a lot since the 2004 vintage.
Shaun and Pauline Bryans of Avonmore Estate

Bass Phillip, Gippsland
Biodynamic practice, not certified. Inspired partly by the fact that his favourite Burgundian producers all seemed to be moving to biodynamics, and partly by a desire to bring balance and health to his soil and vines, pinot noir guru Phillip Jones has been using BD in the Bass Phillip vineyards since Spring 2006.

Email: bpwines@tpg.com.au

Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip. photo: James Boddington

Bindi Wine Growers, Macedon Ranges
Some biodynamic practice, not certified. Winemaker Michael Dhillon is obsessed with capturing the essence of his quartz-riddled vineyard site in every bottle of chardonnay and pinot noir he produces, and manages his vines using a combination of biodynamic and biological techniques developed by the Environmental Research and Information Consortium to increase the communication between soil and vine.

Email: mdhillon@bigpond.net.au

Michael Dhillon of Bindi Wine Growers

Bress Wine, Cider and Produce, Bendigo www.bress.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. When he acquired what is now known as Bress vineyard and orchard a few years ago, winemaker Adam Marks found the soil in poor condition, and is using BD to try and bring the property back to life. The wines Marks make from his own (and bought-in, non-BD-grown) fruit are often lovely.
Adam Marks of Bress Wine

Carlei Wines, Upper Beaconsfield www.carlei.com.au Certified organic and biodynamic (ACO) in some vineyards, biodynamic practice, not certified (yet) in others. Passionate winemaker Sergio Carlei is in many ways Australia's answer to Nicolas Joly, the outspoken French advocate of biodynamics - except Carlei's wines are consistently good. Not only that, but they’re getting better, thanks in part to vineyard and winery advice from Burgundy-based BD consultant, Pascal Marchand.
Sergio Carlei of Carlei Wines

Castagna, Beechworth www.castagna.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Julian Castagna is another Joly-like figure in Australian biodynamics (in that he is an influential advocate of BD who has inspired many others to adopt the methods). Again, the wines more than live up to the hype: the Genesis shiraz viognier is a modern Australian classic.
Julian Castagna of Castagna

Delatite, Upper Goulburn www.delatitewinery.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Delatite’s David Ritchie has been using BD techniques such as the application of 500 since 2001 to improve soil structure and vine health. This vitality can be seen in the particularly high quality of Delatite’s 2006 white wines. The Ritchies also produce some riesling from another vineyard called Barwite www.barwitevineyards.com.au
David Ritchie of Delatite

Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley www.giant-steps.com.au Just starting biodynamic practice. Winemaker Steve Flamsteed and viticulturist Maris Feldgen started applying 500 and 501 and spreading organic mulch on their Yarra vineyards from spring 2007. The Giant Steps wines are some of the region’s best, particularly the distinctive single vineyard chardonnays. It will be interesting to see how BD focuses the terroir of these wines.

Goulburn Terrace, Nagambie Lakes www.goulburnterrace.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Greta Moon and Mike Boudry do nothing conventionally: as well as using BD methods in their vineyard on the banks of the Goulburn Rive and running one of the region’s warmest and quirkiest cellar doors, they make possibly Australia's only sparkling marsanne.

Haywards of Locksley, Strathbogie Ranges
Biodynamic practice, not certified. This small vineyard right on the Hume Highway near Avenel is run meticulously by Jane Sandilands and David Hayward using BD principles. The only wines I’ve so far tasted - all low- or no-added preservative reds - were, unfortunately, oxidised.

Email: haywardwine@iinet.net.au

Hochkirch Wines, Henty
Certified biodynamic (Demeter). This is about as close to the ideal biodynamic vineyard as you could imagine: the 8 hectares of unirrigated vines and the winery are just one part of the Nagorcka family’s farm which also produces sheep, pigs and grain. The farm has been biodynamic since 1998: the wines get better with each vintage - the 2005 reds in particular are stunning.

Email: hochkirch@bigpond.com

John Nagorcka of Hochkirch Wines

Jasper Hill Vineyard, Heathcote www.jasperhill.com Biodynamic practice, not certified but considering certification. Organic since establishment in the mid 1970s, biodynamic since 2004, the Laughton family’s Jasper Hill vineyards produce some of Australia’s best wines, from a steely, concentrated riesling to the two great shirazes, Emily’s Paddock and Georgia’s Paddock.
Ron Laughton of Jasper Hill Vineyard. photo: James Boddington

Jean Paul’s Vineyard, Upper Goulburn www.jeanpaulsvineyard.com.au Certified biodynamic (NASAA). This small, low-profile vineyard - run organically/biodynamically since its establishment in 1994 by Will de Castella, a descendent of the great 19th century Yarra Valley wine family - shot to prominence when its 2005 shiraz was awarded one of only five medals and named best wine under $25 at the 2007 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge.
Will and Heather de Castella of Jean Paul’s Vineyard

Kiltynane Estate, Yarra Valley www.kiltynane.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. After a difficult start, Kate Kirkhope’s biodynamically-farmed, close-planted 4 hectare Yarra vineyard is now producing some delicious wines: a rich and textural blanc de noir called Preliminaire and a sinewy, earthy pinot noir.
Kate Kirkhope of Kiltynane Estate

Lethbridge Wines, Geelong www.lethbridgewines.com Biodynamic practice in estate vineyard, not certified. This vineyard, in the north of the Geelong region, is on gravelly volcanic soil, and Ray Nadeson and Maree Colliss are using biodynamics to help capture that terroir in the bottle. The 2005 estate-grown wines are particularly good; Nadeson is also slowly persuading his other growers to adopt BD in their vineyards.
Ray Nadeson of Lethbridge Wines

Limbic Wines, Pakenham Upper www.limbicwines.com.au Jennifer and Michael Pullar have been using biodynamic practices on their seven hectare vineyard, located on the green fringe of Melbourne suburbia, since 2004. The wines are scintillating: the 2007 sauvignon blanc and 2006 pinot noir in particular are finely ethereal and superbly elegant.
Winemaker Michael Pullar and vineyard manager Rob Norris in the Limbic vineyard

M Chapoutier Australia, Heathcote www.mchapoutieraustralia.com Biodynamic practice in some vineyards, not certified. Rhone Valley winemaker Michel Chapoutier has established a winery in Heathcote to produce wines from a number of vineyards in Victoria, including, from 2008, a joint venture project with Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda. The joint venture wine called La Pleiade, developed in conjunction with Jasper Hill’s Ron Laughton, takes Heathcote shiraz to a new level of depth and complexity.

Moondarra/Holly’s Garden, Gippsland/King Valley Biodynamic practice, not certified. Neil Prentice first encountered biodynamic practices on his Uncle’s farm when he was a kid, and has adopted the methods for his own pinot noir and pinot gris vineyards. His wines are typically very rich and full-bodied.
Moondarra’s Neil Prentice turning some of the Wagyu beef from his farm into sausages

Naked Range, Yarra Valley www.nakedrangewines.com Biodynamic practice, not yet certified. With three seasons of compost spreading and application of 500 under their belts, owner Mike Jansz and viticulturist Simon Wightwick are heading towards organic/biodynamic certification for this 6ha vineyard on the cool western edge of the Yarra Valley. I haven’t yet tasted the wines.

Pennyweight Winery, Beechworth www.pennyweight.com.au Certified organic (ACO), biodynamic practice. ‘I’ve always been sceptical about biodynamics,’ Stephen Morris told me in October 2007. ‘But at the same time I’ve felt that organics was missing something. Then I visited a neighbour’s biodynamic farm at the end of that last, terribly dry summer, and was so impressed that I decided to try it. We were desperate. We felt that if biodynamics could help give us just that little bit of extra soil moisture retention, it could be the difference between surviving and going under. So far, I’ve sprayed 500 once in autumn 07 and once in spring, and I can already see a difference.’
Second generation Pennyweight winemaker, Fred Morris

Prancing Horse Estate, Mornington Peninsula www.prancinghorseestate.com Biodynamic practice, not certified. With Burgundian BD advocate Pascal Marchand as viticultural consultant and Sergio Carlei as winemaker, it’s no surprise to find Prancing Horse has been chemical-free since 2004 and using biodynamic techniques since 2006. Plans are also in place to start using horses rather than tractors to cultivate and manage the vineyard. The wines have improved dramatically, too: the 2006 chardonnay in particular is wonderfully lean, fine and focused.

Rees Miller Estate, Upper Goulburn www.reesmiller.com Certified biodynamic (ACO). All 60 hectares of David Miller and Sylke Rees’ property in the hilly country near Yea is certified BD, including their 7 hectare vineyard. The wines reflect the cool site and shaley, rocky vineyard soils: the reds in particular can be very aromatic and tightly structured.
David Miller and Sylke Rees

Robinvale Organic and Bio-dynamic Wines, Robinvale www.organicwines.com.au Certified biodynamic (Demeter). The Caracatsanoudis family have been farming their 30 hectares of vines biodynamically since 1985. Their depth of experience is undeniable, and the vineyard looks strong and healthy, but wine quality is patchy: while some wines (such as the deliciously fruity 2002 Kerner) can be superb, most are not.
Steve Caracatsanoudis of Robinvale

Roundtable Wines, Brunswick www.roundtablewines.com Nick Bickford’s first, 2005 vintage wines - a lean and minerally unwooded chardonnay and savoury, gluggable shiraz - were made from Rosnay-grown certified biodynamic grapes.

Savaterre, Beechworth www.savaterre.com Biodynamic practice, not certified. If you’re a winemaker in Beechworth, it almost seems mandatory to be biodynamic. No surprise, then, to find that Keppel Smith’s Savaterre vineyard is BD too - and that his wines are richly-flavoured, polished and aromatic.
Keppel Smith of Savaterre. photo: James Boddington

Shadowfax, Werribee www.shadowfax.com.au Starting biodynamic practice in some vineyards, not certified. Since 2007, Shadowfax have been applying 500 to the vineyard near the winery in the deep red soil at Werribee, and reducing chemical herbicide use in all vineyards. Also inspired by the high quality of the fruit he buys from BD vineyards Limbic and Staindl, winemaker Matt Harrop is encouraged to expand the BD practices further.

Sorrenberg Vineyard, Beechworth www.sorrenberg.com In conversion to Demeter certified biodynamic. Unlike many of the other Beechworth newcomers, Barry Morey was a farmer before he decided to plant vines - and his distant ancestors were winemakers in Germany. Since adopting BD - and developing a great passion for compost - in 2000, Morey has seen improvements in his soil. His wines, just quietly, are some of Beechworth’s best.
Barry Morey of Sorrenberg Vineyard

Staindl Wines, Mornington Peninsula Biodynamic practice, not certified. Since buying a 20-year-old 3 acre vineyard on the top of Red Hill in 2002, Melbourne lawyer Paul Staindl has planted another 4 acres and, since autumn 2005, has been farming the lot biodynamically. My pick of the wines, made at Bass Phillip (see above; Staindl is also a partner in Domain Phillip Jones), are a spicy, translucent pinot noir and a beautiful, tangy riesling more Austrian in style than Australian. Email: paul.staindl@clancytriado.com.au

Sutton Grange Winery, Bendigo www.suttongrangewines.com Biodynamic practice, not certified. Winemaker Gilles Lapalus first encountered biodynamics when studying and working in Burgundy, and converted the Sutton Grange vineyard to BD after arriving here in 2001. The wines he makes under the Sutton Grange Estate label (as well as the Fairbank label, which may include grapes from other vineyards) get better with each vintage: the 2005 Estate Syrah and 2006 viognier are stunning.
Gilles Lapalus of Sutton Grange Winery

Tallarook, Upper Goulburn www.tallarook.com In the process of converting some vineyards to biodynamics, seeking certification. Like the wines of Rees Miller just up the road, Tallarook’s wines emphatically express their stony, high-country origins in the glass: the Rhone whites (marsanne and roussanne) are particularly textural and deliciously minerally.

Tarrington Vineyards, Henty www.tarrington.com.au Biodynamic practice, working towards Demeter certification. The two hectare Tarrington vineyard is now joint-owned by resident vigneronne, Dianne Nagorcka, her brother John Nagorcka and his wife Jennifer, of Hochkirch vineyard, just up the road (see above). John Nagorcka will now be helping to manage the vineyard and making the wines; it will be fascinating to see what his Alex Podolinsky-influenced biodynamic methods have on the already-brilliant chardonnay and pinot noir from this undeniably special landscape. Email: tarringtonwines@bigpond.com

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WESTERN AUSTRALIA

24 Karat, Margaret River www.24karat.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Most of the fruit from the Lloyd family’s 46 hectare vineyard in the south of the Margaret River region is sold to Hardys’ Brookland Valley Estate winery, but from 2006, some of the intensely-flavoured, crisp-tasting grapes have been made into very good wine under the 24 Karat label.
Vern Trebbutt, vineyard manager at 24 Karat

Borrisokane, Margaret River Biodynamic practice, not certified. Anthony and Tim Quinlan, who work for Era Farming as viticulturist and soil consultant respectively, established this one acre vineyard organically in 2000 and started applying the BD preps in 2001. One wine is made - a tightly-structured, perfumed blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. The vineyard is named after the Quinlan ancestral village in Tipperary. Email: boofq@wn.com.au

Burnside Organic Farm, Margaret River www.burnsidebungalows.com.au Certified biodynamic (ACO). Lara and Jamie McCall run a fabulous mixed farm (and boutique accommodation business) in the heart of Margaret River: chooks, avocados, pigs, olives, capers, and just less than a hectare of young, dry-grown zinfandel vines. A very small winery was built this year, and a producers’ licence will soon follow allowing the McCalls to start selling their powerfully-flavoured first vintages.
Jamie and Lara McCall in the winery/shed at Burnside Organic Farm

Cowaramup Wines/Clown Fish, Margaret River www.cowaramupwines.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Inspired by Cullen, the Reynolds family first started using BD on their17 ha vineyard in 2001, and today the BD field sprays are augmented by compost and other biological products such as fish emulsion supplied by ERA Farming. Most of the fruit is sold to other winemakers, but 20 per cent of the crop is made into wines sold under the Clown Fish label.
L to R - Cameron Reynolds, Anthony Quinlan of ERA Farming, and Russ Reynolds of Cowaramup Wines

Cullen Wines, Margaret River www.cullenwines.com.au Certified biodynamic (ACO). Cullen was already considered one of Australia’s top producers, and was fully organic before moving to biodynamics leading up to the 2004 vintage. I believe the wines have improved even further since then, and now have an exciting extra dimension of quality and finesse.
Vanya Cullen explains biodynamics in the cellar door’s kitchen garden

Gilead Estate, Swan District
Biodynamic practice, not certified. Gerald and Judith Gauntlett planted just over one hectare of vines along organic lines in 1990, and went biodynamic in 2002 after attending a workshop. Production is a tiny 400 cases of warm-hearted, sometimes rustic wines. The shiraz can be powerfully spicy.

Phone: (08) 9407 5076

Judy and Gerry Gauntlett inspecting a She-oak at Gilead Estate

Herriot Wines, Manjimup www.herriotwines.com.au Certified biodynamic (Demeter). The Herriots started using biodynamics in their vineyard from 2000 onwards, becoming certified in 2005. In 2006, the vineyard produced some absolutely gorgeous, pristine rieslings - in both slightly off-dry and late-picked styles.
Yvonne and John Herriot of Herriot Wines

Howard Park, Great Southern www.howardparkwines.com.au Biodynamic practice in some vineyards, not certified. Burgundy-based biodynamic winemaker Pascal Marchand and Howard Park owner Jeff Burch established the Marchand and Burch joint venture in late 2006 (Marchand is also consulting to Howard Park). Initially these wines will be sourced from small blocks within existing vineyards, but on a high, stony block in Mount Barker, Marchand and Burch have also established a one hectare plot of densely-planted (1.5m by 0.8m) pinot noir managed biodynamically using a Clydesdale draught horse. The first Marchand and Burch wines will be released in late 2008. www.marchandandburchwines.com.au .
Winemaker Tony Davis and owner Amy Burch looking for something to drink in the Burgundy-stuffed cellar at Howard Park

Jeeleunup Gully, Mount Barker Certified biodynamic (ACO). Certified since 1983, Jeelenup Gully is one of Australia’s oldest fully biodynamic vineyards. A 2002 riesling tasted recently was developing good toast and honey flavours. Email: jpickles58@optusnet.com.au

Marri Wood Park, Margaret River www.margaretriver.com Biodynamic practice, hoping for Demeter in-conversion certification in 2008. Perth investment advisor Julian Wright planted his vineyard in the Yallingup district of Margaret River in 1993, and has been chemical-free and fully biodynamic since 2007. Wright’s passion, and his best wine – made by local legend Bob Cartwright – is the reserve chenin blanc, a dry, lean, barrel-fermented white with considerable cellaring potential.
Julian Wright digging up worms at Marri Wood Park

Talijancich Wines, Swan Valley www.taliwine.com.au Biodynamic practice, not certified. Third generation Swan Valley winemaker James Talijancich has been spraying his 6 ha vineyard with Alex Podolinsky’s prepared 500 for five years, and until this year was Demeter certified (James no longer sees benefit from having the logo his labels). Most Talijancich wines (including a wonderfully taut, bone dry chenin blanc and awesome 1965 solera pedro ximinez) are made from other growers’ fruit. The estate-grown (and, therefore, BD) wines are the liqueur verdelho, graciano and reserve shiraz.
James Talijancich

Key to certification bodies:
ACO: Australian Certified Organic, the certification arm of the Biological Farmers of Australia
Demeter: certified by the Bio-Dynamic Research Institute
NASAA: National Association of Sustainable Agriculture Australia

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